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¡°The Mongols ´ä·Ê¶±=´ä·Êǰ ´ä·Ê¶± Çà»ç¶± ±îÄ¡¶± were incredibly smart about creating their imperial cuisine,¡± said Laudan. Historians have translated a cookbook from kgitbank=¾ÆÀÌÆ¼¹ðÅ©Á¾·ÎÁ¡ 1330, found in the Mongol court in China, named the Proper and Essential Things for the Emperor's Food and Drink, which shows how the recipes were adapted to pay respect to local peoples. One noodle dish is customised with yoghurt garlic sauce for Turkish µ¿¾È±¸Æ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç audiences but has ginger, orange peel and soy sauce added in China, she explained.
¡°This a very deliberate example of what is now called ¡®appropriation¡¯, of the history of cuisines of the regions, to create a new hybrid imperial cuisine.¡±
Khinikali very likely belongs somewhere on a family tree Çϰ赿Æ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç alongside not just xialongbao ? the delicate soup dumplings beloved at dim sum halls to which it is À̹ÌÅ×À̼dz²¼ºÁö°© À̹ÌÅ×À̼ǿ©¼ºÁö°© À̹ÌÅ×À̼dz²¼º½Å¹ß À̹ÌÅ×À̼ǿ©¼º½Å¹ß=À̹ÌÅ×À̼dz²¼ºÁö°© À̹ÌÅ×À̼ǿ©¼ºÁö°© À̹ÌÅ×À̼dz²¼º½Å¹ß À̹ÌÅ×À̼ǿ©¼º½Å¹ß sometimes compared ? but also Russian pelmeni, Turkish and Armenian manti, East European pierogi, Central and South Asian sambusak and samosa, and Japanese gyoza.
Gachechiladze said a new generation of chefs is coming around to ·¹Çø®Ä«¼îÇÎ ·¹Çø®Ä«Ä¿½ºÅÒ±Þ ·¹Çø®Ä«ÀÏ´ëÀÏ=·¹Çø®Ä«¼îÇÎ ·¹Çø®Ä«Ä¿½ºÅÒ±Þ ·¹Çø®Ä«ÀÏ´ëÀÏ the idea that Georgian cooks are not just great preservationists, whose skills lie solely in keeping beloved meals alive through times of hardship. È«Äá¸íǰ È«Äá¸íǰ½Ã°è È«Äá¸íǰ¹Ì·¯±Þ=È«Äá¸íǰ È«Äá¸íǰ½Ã°è È«Äá¸íǰ¹Ì·¯±Þ Younger chefs see that Georgians, sandwiched between aggressive empires, have always taken, adapted and learned from an international web of influences, she added.
¡°They¡¯re going farther than I did, and I¡¯m not, anymore, the enemy of the ¸íǰ·¹Çø®Ä«=¸íǰ·¹Çø®Ä« country,¡± she laughed. ¡°Now this ¡®fusion¡¯ is a very modern term, but this Georgian food was always fusion, for centuries and centuries and centuries.¡±
Culinary Roots is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place¡¯s heritage. |
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